Where to have a picnic and relax in the Montagne Noire

Aire de pique-nique dans la Montagne Noire

Five spots, all less than 40 minutes from the Clos Fleuri bar one. What they have in common: shade, water, and several degrees less than down on the plain. This is where to go when the Lauragais hits 36 °C.

At a glance

SpotFrom the hotelShadeBest for
Lampy reservoir28.4 km · 34 mincompletethe coolest and the quietest
Saint-Ferréol lake21.6 km · 25 mingoodswimming in season
The Alzeau intake and the channels33.3 km · 40 mincompletethe wildest
Around Saissac23.1 km · 26 minvariablethe view over the Lauragais
Cubserviès and the north slope58.9 km · 1 hr 07completethe waterfall, in spring

1. The Lampy reservoir — the best of them

28.4 km · 34 minutes

Our favourite spot, and the least visited.

An 18th-century holding reservoir deep in the forest, with a stone dam, beech and conifer woodland, and the Rigole de la Montagne — the mountain feeder channel — running right alongside.

Why it’s the best: the shade is complete, it’s several degrees cooler than the plain, there’s water, and there’s almost nobody there. It is the exact opposite of a lakeside car park in August.

What you do there: you have lunch, you nap, you follow the channel for 2 or 3 km — it’s flat, since it follows a contour line — and you go home.

In July and August, it’s the refuge of the region.

2. Saint-Ferréol lake — the most complete

21.6 km · 25 minutes

The lake has shaded areas in quantity, and one decisive advantage: you can swim (lifeguarded in season).

The part everyone misses: the park below the dam, on the opposite side from the beach. Waterfalls, pools, a water jet, and shaded 19th-century walkways. It’s the coolest, quietest corner of the site, and most visitors never go down there.

That’s where you should picnic. See Saint-Ferréol lake.

3. The Alzeau intake and the channels — the wildest

33.3 km · 40 minutes

The point where the Canal du Midi takes in its water. A stream, a plaque, the forest, and the start of the Rigole de la Montagne, which runs for some thirty kilometres along the mountainside.

What you’ll find: forest, running water, silence. No facilities, no crowds.

What you’ll understand: that all the water in the Canal du Midi starts here. That somebody, in the 17th century, traced a contour line for 30 km along a mountainside so that this water would arrive at exactly 189 metres at Naurouze. You’re picnicking at the source of a UNESCO monument.

The path along the channel is flat. You walk as far as you like and turn back whenever you like.

4. Around Saissac — for the view

23.1 km · 26 minutes

The closest of them, and the only one where you picnic with the plain of the Lauragais laid out below you, as far as the Pyrenees on a clear day.

The shade is patchier than at the Lampy — this is the edge of the mountains, not yet deep forest. But it’s 26 minutes away, and the view is unbeatable.

The right time: late afternoon, when the light skims the plain.

5. Cubserviès and the north slope — the furthest

58.9 km · 1 hr 07

A wooded valley, hamlets built of schist, streams, and a waterfall of around 90 metres — one of the highest in France.

The warning: the flow depends on rainfall. In spring it’s spectacular. In August after six weeks of drought, it’s a trickle — and 1 hr 07 of driving for a trickle is a poor deal.

Go in spring. In that season it’s the finest spot on the list.

Putting the picnic together

Buy in the morning, in Castelnaudary, before you head up.

At the market or from Lauragais producers: regional sheep’s and goat’s cheeses, artisan charcuterie, tinned lingot beans, local honey, bread, seasonal fruit, and walnuts in autumn. In season, Lauragais saffron or olive oil.

Wine: a red from the Malepère or the Cabardès — but remember that somebody has to drive back, and the roads of the Montagne Noire are winding.

See Local markets and producers around Castelnaudary.

A cool box is essential. A car in the sun reaches 60 °C. Your cheese and charcuterie won’t survive the morning, and neither will your bottle.

The rules, and they matter

  1. No fires. Ever. No barbecue, no camping stove, no cigarette stubbed out in the pine needles. The fire risk is real here, and the south slope is scrubland.
  2. Take everything back with you. Peelings included: an apple core takes months to break down and draws wildlife onto footpaths.
  3. Stick to the permitted areas. Saint-Ferréol, the Lampy and the feeder channels are working hydraulic structures, not leisure parks. The signage isn’t decorative.
  4. Swim only where it’s allowed. Saint-Ferréol, in the lifeguarded zone, in season. Nowhere else.
  5. Park in the marked spaces. Forest tracks have to stay clear for emergency services and machinery.

When to go

Spring: the best. Full streams, waterfalls at their peak, green forests, nobody about. Summer: this is when you head up. 36 °C on the plain, 28 under the beeches. Autumn: the most beautiful. Beech trees, low light, chestnuts, mushrooms. Winter: waterfalls at their peak, but access above 800 m is unreliable.

What to bring

  • A cool box, non-negotiable.
  • A windbreaker: 8 to 10 °C cooler at altitude, even in August.
  • Closed shoes: the north slope is damp and mossy rocks are slippery.
  • Water, on top of what you drink with the meal.
  • Bags to carry everything back out.

From Le Clos Fleuri

The best spot — the Lampy — is 34 minutes away. The most complete — Saint-Ferréol — is 25.

In practice: you shop at the market in the morning, head up at 11, have lunch in the shade, walk along the channel, take a swim, and you’re back by 6 p.m. Without changing hotels, without doing 200 km.

And if you don’t feel like heading up at all, the Clos Fleuri’s outdoor pool, sun terrace and garden are right there — with the restaurant for the evening, and duck that comes from a producer in the Montagne Noire, precisely.

Do you have any questions?
We’re here to help

Head to the Lampy reservoir (34 mins) for complete shade and tranquillity, to Lake Saint-Ferréol (25 mins) to combine fishing with a swim, or to the Alzeau weir (40 mins) for a wilder setting.

No. No fires are permitted at any time of year: there is a real risk of fire in the area. Picnics must be cold, and you must take all your rubbish away with you.

In the Montagne Noire: the Lampy basin and the paths running alongside the streams provide continuous shade in the forest, where the temperature is several degrees lower than on the plains.

In the park below the sea wall, on the opposite side to the beach: waterfalls, ponds and shaded paths dating from the 19th century. It is the coolest and quietest part of the site, and most visitors do not venture down there.

Sheep’s and goat’s cheese, artisanal charcuterie, local honey, bread and seasonal fruit, bought in the morning at the market in Castelnaudary. A cool box is essential: a car parked in the sun can reach 60 °C.

Other ideas we’ve discovered

Book your stay at Le Clos Fleuri now
and make the most of your break in Castelnaudary.

Do you have any questions?
We’re here to help

Le Clos Fleuri is a convenient base from which to explore Castelnaudary, the Canal du Midi and the must-see attractions of the Lauragais region. The hotel offers easy access to Carcassonne, Cathar Country and the Montagne Noire, whilst providing comfortable accommodation on site.

Yes. The hotel welcomes both holidaymakers spending a weekend or holiday in the Aude and business travellers. You can enjoy a pleasant setting, essential services and a straightforward stay, whatever the length of your stay.

 

Yes. At the Clos Fleuri restaurant, you can enjoy a meal right there on the premises, in a friendly atmosphere. It’s the perfect way to round off a day spent on the Canal du Midi, a visit to Carcassonne or a trip to the Cathar Country.

Depending on the time of year and the offers available, packages including meals (half-board, overnight stay with dinner, etc.) may be available. It is best to check availability or contact the hotel with a specific enquiry.

Yes. Our team can suggest ideas for walks, must-see attractions and top spots around Castelnaudary, depending on what you’re looking for (family, nature, heritage, food).